Never before have two realities blended so successfully into a single name.
MAD Winery honors the legendary village of Tokaj—while driving you mad in all the best ways.
When Karoly Kovács decided to transform the small Szent Tamás winery, he chose the name MAD for its new identity, wishing to honor the village of the same name, located in the heart of Tokaj — one of the most historic and significant winemaking regions in the world.
Famed for the legendary sweet Tokaji Aszú — often called “the wine of kings and the king of wines” — this remarkable volcanic vineyard zone in northeastern Hungary has long been proving that it is also capable of producing exceptional dry whites. And MAD Wines does exactly that: working with more than 22 hectares of vineyards, it produces a range of wines that can drive you mad with both their quality and their value.
Of course, the notoriously costly production of sweet wines rarely results in “budget-friendly” bottles (even though MAD often manages to achieve exactly that). But the dry range — made from the noble Furmint variety as well as the increasingly desirable Hárslevelű and Sárga Muskotály — forces you to look at your glass again and again, almost in disbelief…
And it’s not only the prices. The horizontal and vertical consistency of the MAD collection is what truly impresses, making every single wine worthy of exploration — and choosing the most interesting ones a true challenge.
In Tokaj, Muscat is usually used as a seasoning component in sweet wines, so it’s rare to find monovarietal dry expressions. Yet the Sárga Muskotály 2021 (8/10) stands out not only because of this rarity, but also because of its crystalline, bone-dry purity, delivering mint, lime and rose. Anyone who believes Moschato Alexandrias is naturally soft will be proven wrong…
I’ve always believed that a producer is judged by their core cuvée, and Dry by Tokaj 2019 (8/10) says everything about MAD. In my opinion, the estate’s most significant wine (relative to price) costs just €11.50 and offers flinty explosiveness, a relatively full palate, lemony length and impressive aging potential. So the vintage shouldn’t discourage you; the wine simply needs another 2–3 years in bottle.
Furmint is to Tokaj what Assyrtiko is to Santorini, and the inox-fermented Furmint 2019 (8.5/10) introduces us to the greatness of the variety. For many producers, such a wine would be the pinnacle, not the introduction — with floral, honeyed and yeasty aromas, a fairly rich mouthfeel and striking acidity capable of securing a decade of aging.
The word Nyúlászó may mean “a good place to catch rabbits,” but MAD Nyúlászó 2019 (9/10) proves that it can also mean “a great place to craft epic wines.” Aged for 10 months in barrel, this outstanding Grand Cru shows dense tropical character, generous weight and 15-year aging potential, built on abundant acidity and zeolite-rich soils.
If Nyúlászó carries the exoticism of Hatzidakis, then Dongó 2016 (9/10) shines with an a la Argyros austerity. Even though the wine undergoes similar barrel maturation, this Grand Cru showcases aromas of wet stone, moderate body and pronounced minerality — a high-class wine that will move drinkers well into the late 2030s.
The excellence of MAD’s dry cuvées almost made me forget that I was standing in one of the world’s greatest terroirs for sweet wine production. The Sweet by Tokaj 2018 (8.5/10) quickly reminded me — in the most seductive and impressively priced way. At €11.50 per 375ml, you can bring to your glass a beautiful sweet-and-sour interplay full of ripe yellow fruits, resting at 11.5% alcohol and 103 g/L residual sugar. A true best buy in the world of sweet wines.
When you set the bar so high with your “simple” sweet wine, the next level can only reach the territory of “world-class.” And Late Harvest 2019 (9/10) does just that — thanks to the presence of 50% noble rot grapes in the blend and the absence of oak. This combination propels the acidity to 7.19 g/L, ensuring aristocratic lemon and mushroom notes, incredible freshness and endless length.
The number of Puttonyos indicates the proportion of botrytized grapes — and therefore the richness and concentration — in Tokaj’s greatest sweet wines. So the word “dry” on MAD’s epic Aszú 2013 (9.5/10) may initially seem disappointing… until you learn that the producer only makes the highest category: 6 Puttonyos. Taste it, and you’ll understand: an apricot-and-mandarin bomb of freshness, with 225 g/L sugar, 8.4 g/L acidity and 9% alcohol. These numbers may say little to most, but they guarantee endless pleasure to everyone.
The creation of the Kovács family honors, with its name, both MAD and one of the greatest winemaking villages of Tokaj and Hungary. At the same time, it warns — in capital letters — of what is destined to happen with every sip of every one of its wines…
MAD Winery imports are handled in Greece by MAD Wines, +30 210 9520622.
Pure madness.
Source: https://www.fnl-guide.com/gr/el/wine-topics/mad-winery-tokaji/
